Pork: The Meat Mothership
Sunday, May 8, 2011 Mother's Day is not just an occasion to thank mom for all of the wonderfully wrongheaded advice she's given you over the years - it is also a fine day for food appreciation. Almost everyone can think of at least one dish their mom prepared exceptionally well. It was comfort food and she ladled it out with love even as dinners grew increasingly uncomfortable as you disappointed her time and time again.
Unfortunately, not everyone thinks "mmmmm yes!" when they hear the phrase "just like mom used to make." For some of us, those six words are uttered only after eating a mom-cooked meal astounding in its mediocrity. On a personal note, when I was growing up my own mom had her kitchen strengths- chicken cutlets, baked chicken chicken surprise, chickened chicken and chickeny chick-chick-chicken - but honestly, she also lobbed a lot of duds out of the oven. Her meatloaf turned me off from all meatloaf for no less than 20 years.
It's a known fact that Whistler made his mother sit in the corner when she fouled up dinner. But I love my mother and I was able to forgive and move on. I came to realize that while she is in fact my mother, she isn't my "food mother." No, for the nurturing qualities of a food mother, I turned to the food itself - and not chicken because chicken is no food mother. Chicken is more like a food-aunt ... the kind of aunt that comes over uninvited and never leaves your house.
No, there is only one animal with the chops to be my food mother: The Pig.
I stand over and stare at a pig and its parts like some men do with a car.My love affair with this animal and the fruit it bears is well documented, so there is no reason to slice deep and rehash old musings. Instead, I'll share a recent unctuous love connection between me and the swine.
In Glen Cove, Long Island, there is a little place called The Polish Deli. Ok, the name isn't clever, but who cares. It is what it says it is - a no-frills, Polish deli, with a delightful fella behind the counter slicing meats and his not-so-delightful mother in the back cranking out the hot food. If you want a sandwich, you can't go wrong with cold sliced kielbasa with Oscypek cheese and hot mustard. (*NOTE: Oscypek cheese is a smoked Polish cheese. Get on that trolly.)
On this particular trip, I decided to go with a hot dish ... not because my Polish friend recommended it, but because one item jumped up and kicked me in my food-surveying eye.
The item, a pork leg shank.
Pork leg shank with mashed potatoes and hunter's stew. All Polish jokes end now. I knew I was in for destined an epic meal when the deli clerk said, "Wow, that's heavy," when he lifted this beauty out of the display. Salivating and shaking with excitement, I paid the man - trembling as I did so - and after mumbling something about "sleeping well tonight," my meal and I were on our way home where we could be alone.
Flintstones, meet the Flintstones ...What followed can only be described as carnage. I'm not exactly sure what happened, but when I regained consciousness, I was slippery and my pants were gone. What I do remember is how the skin/fat/meat layers melted together for a savory flavory that sent my eyes rolling. My toes were cramped because I could not uncurl them.
There were some leftovers. The next day I took that big honking bone and what was left of the meat and simply pan fried it. The skin crisped up, the fat became a glaze and the chemical reactions brought even more succulence out of the meat.
You only live once. Why prolong it?Look at the above picture. LOOK at it. This is what Mother Nature has provided her children. Eat at her trough. You might be thinking, why pan-fry a seemingly meatless bone? Well for one, because the little bits of clinging awesome still on that bone provide some quality gnawing time.
The greens are only there to make the meat comfortable. They are not for consumption.
Pork. Fantastic on day one, orgasmic on day two.
Your mom labored hard to get you into this world. If you can't appreciate her cooking, at the very least you should find someone else's mother and appreciate her cooking.
Mothered,
The Cultured Pig




